CACAU ESTRELA NOVA ROTA

101
Do Estadão
Desde que o fungo vassoura-de-bruxa arrasou as plantações de cacau da região de Ilhéus, em 1989, os coronéis e as cidades da Costa do Cacau começaram a falir. E o que antes era riqueza virou sinônimo de decadência, afugentando os turistas, que apenas desembarcavam no Aeroporto Jorge Amado de passagem para outras praias.
Foram quase 20 anos de recessão, mas, felizmente, essa realidade vem mudando. Hoje, Ilhéus sonha ser também a terra do chocolate fino – ideia apoiada por eventos como o Festival Internacional do Chocolate da Bahia, que ocorreu lá de 28 de junho a 2 de julho. Com as novas tecnologias genéticas, a produção está crescendo. E o “fruto de ouro” volta também como protagonista de uma nova rota turística.
Lançados há quase um ano, os Caminhos do Cacau e Chocolate levam o visitante a conhecer a produção do fruto, que, curiosamente, é feita da mesma maneira há mais de um século. Estão previstas visitas a fábricas de chocolate e paradas para experimentar (e comprar) os subprodutos do fruto, do qual tudo se aproveita – o mel da fermentação para licor ou geleia, a polpa que vira suco e a casca, nas originais caipirinhas de cacau, ou “caipicacau”.

 

O turista conta ainda com passeios até cachoeiras e comunidades como a Vila Juerana, que dança bumba meu boi e produz fuxico, e o Quilombo D’Oiti.
Mas coisa fofa mesmo são as preguiças do Centro de Recuperação do Bicho Preguiça, na reserva zoobotânica da Comissão Executiva do Plano da Lavoura Cacaueira, em Itabuna. É lá que as bichinhas salvas do desmatamento são tratadas e, muitas vezes, devolvidas à mata. Não é raro encontrar a bióloga responsável Vera Lúcia de Oliveira com uma preguiça pendurada no pescoço. Mas não se engane: apesar de adorarem um abraço, os bichos têm pelo grosso feito piaçava e, se for segurar um deles, é preciso ter cuidado com as compridas garras.
Memórias. Conta-se que, lá pelo ano de 1889, um explorador de minério carioca, bruto feito Lampião, chegou à Fazenda Almada, em Uruçuca (a 1h30 de Ilhéus), querendo comprá-la, mas o coronel Pedro Augusto Cerqueira Lima não fez gosto em vender. Irritado, o explorador juntou 40 jagunços para arrasar a fazenda e, só de pirraça, mandou um dos capangas cortar a cabeça e as mãos da imagem de Santa Rita, padroeira do lugar. Mas a Fazenda Almada (fazendaalmada.com.br; day use a R$ 150 o casal, com almoço) conseguiu se reerguer. Dizem que, anos mais tarde, o jagunço teve uma das mãos amputadas e o tal explorador acabou degolado no Rio.
Se a história é lenda, impossível saber, mas a imagem da santa com a cabeça colada e sem as mãos continua no altar da casa grande, e a história enriquece os almoços servidos na antiga louça da família Cerqueira Lima, contada pela dona da propriedade, a simpática Elizabeth.
Depois da crise do cacau na década de 1990, as famílias dos antigos coronéis viram no turismo uma fonte de renda. E, com comida típica, hospitalidade e boas histórias passaram a abrir suas terras a preços bem acessíveis.
Até pouco tempo, as fazendas mais famosas e estruturadas a receber visitas eram a Primavera e a Renascer – ambas usadas como cenário da novela da Globo Renascer (1993). Porém, a cada dia mais propriedades rurais abrem suas portas ao turismo.
Na Fazenda Provisão (fazendaprovisao.com.br; R$ 500 o fim de semana em casa para seis a oito pessoas), única da região que oferece hospedagem, móveis e objetos da época transportam o visitante ao início do século passado, enquanto o almoço é servido em um quiosque com vista para as barcaças de secagem do cacau. Ali, também é possível andar na roça e fazer trilha que leva a um orquidário natural na Mata Atlântica – preservada, para garantir o sustento das plantações de cacau, feitas sob as árvores centenárias.

Fonte: Blog do Gusmão/Ilhéus

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